Malted Brown Butter Blondies

I inherited my obsession with malted milk powder from my mom. More often than not, we would eat the powder dry, straight from the can, holding our breaths as we bring the spoons to our mouths so as not to blow the contents all over the kitchen counter. This recipe, inspired by a fudgy malt cake we had for dessert at a restaurant in Thailand, is a nod to my mother and all the things she taught me.

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The malt flavor, while subtle, perfectly compliments the fudgey, gooey texture of these bars. The butter, well browned, amplifies the nuttiness of the malt.

I use Horlick’s (fun fact: pharmacist James Horlick invented the product as an infant food and patented the name “malted milk” in 1887), but feel free to use whatever brand you like.

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Chewy Black Sesame Cookies

As bakers, we derive a good deal of inspiration from nostalgia. Making sweet treats is a way to commemorate your childhood, a chance to shut up that sensible adult voice in your head telling you to eat more vegetables and do your taxes with a boatload of sugar and fats.
Sesame cookie dough
Black sesame, commonly used in both sweet and savory preparations in Thai and Chinese cuisine, is high on my list of nostalgic ingredients. I grew up loving desserts made with black sesame, from bua loi nam king, black sesame dumplings in sweet ginger tea, to fried sesame balls at dim sum restaurants, to black sesame granola bars sold at my mom’s favorite health food store. Nowadays, eating anything that contains black sesame is sure to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

These chewy  black sesame cookies, inspired by Christina Tosi’s genius corn cookies, combines the warm, toasty, savoriness of black sesame with the buttery richness of an American style soft cookie. These treats are so comforting they are sure to satisfy your sense of nostalgia, even for memories you never had.
all baked!
You can find black sesame seeds at most Asian grocery stores. You can get them pre-toasted, but I like to get them raw and toast them myself.

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Chocolate Chip Cookies

My first experience of the American style, gooey in the center, crunchy on the outside chocolate chip cookie came out of a Pepperidge Farms bag. I had never tasted anything like it before: up until that point, cookies to me meant the drab, shortening-based, mass-produced, hard nuggets often issued with your Ovaltine at funerals. From the first taste, I was hooked: I didn’t know that a cookie could be so soft and moist and gooey and… comforting. It immediately transported me to the white-picket-fenced homes I’d only read about in children’s books.

Amurrca, fuck yeah!

Amurrca, fuck yeah!

This Pepperidge Farms cookie was my gateway drug to baking. I spent the year after cramming that whole cookie (and the rest of the pack) into my mouth searching for others like it. My failure to do so eventually led me to start doing it myself. From those first few batches of cookies that were sometimes too cakey, sometimes too hard, sometimes a gooey, spread-out mess, I started trying out other recipes in the cookbooks and, as they say, it all went downhills from there.

So in honor of July 4th, that most ‘Murrcan of holidays, I present to you my own taste of the American Dream: the ooey, gooey, white-picket-fencey chocolate chip cookie.

Tastes like freedom

Tastes like freedom

Much better cooks have spent countless hours testing recipes, refining methods and writing treatises on the subject. In particular, I’d highly recommend these helpful tips from Brave Tart (where the nutmeg in our recipe comes from), and this thorough guide from Serious Eats’ Food Lab (SCIENCE!).

In my experience, I’d say that the most important step to never, ever skip unless you absolutely have to is refrigeration: it makes a huge difference in your cookies’ consistency. So even if you are willing to forgo any of the other pro-tips for the sake of time and convenience, do absolutely plan ahead and make sure you have at least 1-2 hours  (okay, or 30 minutes and an empty freezer) to chill your dough before baking.

 

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Makes 18 cookies (Laura and I use a 1½ tbs scoop)

1 stick unsalted butter, slightly softened
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup white sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 ¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 cup chocolate chips

First, check your fridge and make sure there’s enough space for a sheet pan. Go on – do it. You’ll thank me later.

Line a sheet pan with a silicon mat or parchment paper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, start creaming the butter and sugars together at medium speed. Once the mixture starts to come together, add the egg and vanilla, then continue creaming until the butter is light and fluffy and the sugars have dissolved, about 7-10 minutes (We have Momofuku Milkbar‘s Christina Tosi to thank for this approach).

Meanwhile, in another bowl, whisk together all the dry ingredients (except the chocolate chips). Once your butter mixture is ready, dump the dry ingredients into the stand mixer bowl and mix on low until just combined. Mix in the chocolate chips.

Using a medium sized (1½ tbs) scoop, scoop balls of dough onto your sheet pan. You can place them fairly close together at this stage, since you’re not baking them just yet. Cover the sheet pan with plastic wrap, and pop the whole thing in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Once the dough balls are firm, you can store them in a plastic bag (they’ll last in the fridge for up to 3 days or in the freezer for a couple weeks) or bake them.

To bake, preheat your oven to 350F and arrange your dough balls 1-2 inches apart on a lined sheet pan (you’ll need 2 if you are baking the whole recipe).  Bake your cookies at 350F for 15 minutes, or until the cookies have spread and the edges are starting to brown. Let cool for a couple minutes on the sheet pan before moving them to a cooling rack or, as we do it, to your mouth.

The cookies will store in an airtight container for 2-3 days (props to you if you can keep them around for that long).

One-bowl Chocolate Chip Cranberry Walnut Cookies

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How long does it take to make cookies, start to finish?  Pruitt and I decided to challenge ourselves one night.  Our motivation: a half-baked order of cookies (pun intended) from a late-night cookie vendor that will go unnamed.  Instead of a dozen warm cookies, raw cookie dough conformed to the takeout box.  Not even we can avoid the temptation of door-to-door cookie delivery but we had been (figuratively) burned.  We were determined to prove we could finish a tasty batch faster than the delivery time.

We came up with this recipe on the spot, primarily to use up the cranberries in my pantry.  Unlike other cookie recipes, it’s not necessary to bring your butter to room temperature before whipping, though slicing the butter will make it easier to beat in the sugar.  Also, did I mention this is a SINGLE-BOWL RECIPE?!  It’s a great go-to cookie recipe since it’s easy to adjust or double.  If your mix-ins aren’t very sweet (e.g. toasted nuts, shell-covered chocolates, etc.), you can increase the amount of sugar.

So how long did it take us?  About 20-25 minutes for warm cookies, which beats subpar cookie delivery any day.

Do you have a go-to cookie recipe?  Tell us in the comments!

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Matcha Macarons

macaronThe first time I saw macarons, I knew we were meant to be. I remember gaping at the colorful display in the window of a patisserie on a family trip to Paris when I was eight or nine, wondering what these little tidbits, almost too beautiful to be food, could be. With no comman

d of the language and no control over our tour group’s itinerary (ever seen those tour groups that travel by giant buses, disembarking to gobble up tourist attractions in 30-minute intervals? Yeah, that was us), I didn’t get the chance to find out.

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Then, many years later, like star-crossed lovers, the macaron and I again encountered one another, this time, at my (at the time future) in-laws’. Someone had sent my mother-in-law a box of them from an expensive New York patisserie as a present. At long last, I took my first bite of this beautiful, illusive morsel… and was  terribly, terribly underwhelmed. Dry, chalky and one-noted in its flavor, it fell far short of what I had imagined.

Despite my disappointment, I knew that the macaron could, at least in theory, be far more. Thus began my quest to capture the Platonic ideal of the macaron: a sandwich cookie with shells sturdy enough to withhold assembly, yet tender enough to melt in your mouth, holding a filling that’s assertive enough to impart an interesting flavor, but not so sweet that it turns the whole endeavor into a cloying sugar-fest.

Below is a recipe for one of my favorite iterations of this cookie so far. Matcha, or Japanese ceremonial green tea powder, provides a deep flavor and a little bit of bitterness to balance out the sweetness. To boot, it also provides great color with no added moisture.macarondone2

 

While we’re on the subject of moisture, it’s important to note that letting your cookies dry before baking them is key. I kept skipping this at first, and kept ending up with cracked shells. Turns out that letting a skin develop on top of your shells before baking them is key to protecting their facades and creating their “feet,” that signature ruffle that forms around the base of macarons when they rise correctly (i.e. from the bottom). That said, even if your macarons do crack, who cares as long as they are delicious?

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Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream

It’s almost too late for pumpkins but Thanksgiving isn’t Thanksgiving to me without pumpkin. My usual contribution to my large family’s Thanksgiving feasts back in LA was pumpkin pie, and it’s been on the menu since hosting dinner with friends. This year, Pruitt and I decided on macaron ice cream sandwiches filled with pumpkin ice cream. I think of it as our modified version of pumpkin pie, perfect for those already tackling a 22-lb turkey, five sides, and pecan pie.

 

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This recipe is adapted from Jeni Britton Bauer’s Roasted Pumpkin 5-Spice Ice Cream recipe, included in Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home.  As Pruitt mentioned in a previous post, Jeni’s recipes call for cream cheese instead of egg yolks, which results in creamier (not icy) ice cream. The honey and pumpkin (and additional cream cheese) also give the ice cream a velvety texture. The spices can be adjusted as necessary.  I started off with 1/8 teaspoon of each and had to increase significantly to get a bolder spice taste.  The hardest part is stirring the milk mixture while it heats up. I usually have music playing or chat/switch off with Pruitt while we wait for it to boil.

Happy Thanksgiving!

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Chocolate Chip Walnut Blondies

A good blondie recipe is an important asset for any dessert repertoire. Sometimes called butterscotch brownies, these morsels of butter and sugar are easy to master, delicious, and infinitely adaptable. You can make them plain or dress them up with nuts, chocolate chips or dried fruits.

Since butter is the main ingredient here, the key to the perfect blondie is coaxing as much flavor out of it as possible. The nuttiness of the browned butter, emphasized by the nutmeg, adds depth and character to this particular batter.

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Adapted from How to Cook Everything and the Joy of Cooking.

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Ginger & Cardamom Ice Cream with Crystallized Ginger Chunks, or Why Pokémon Training is the Perfect Analogy for Ice Cream Making

The presence of free-roaming water molecules is what separates delicious ice cream from crappy, icy milk. Think of water molecules as wild Pokémon, waiting to jump out of the tall grass to attack you and ruin your ice cream. Your job as ice cream maker is similar to that of a Pokémon trainer: you must use the Pokémon/ingredients in your roster – in this case, sugar, starch and protein – to capture the wild roaming water molecules and put them to work for you.

Ginger ice cream

When Rhys and I got married last summer, my lovely coworkers got us a 2 Quart Cuisinart ice cream maker, along with a copy of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home to help get me started. While Jeni’s recipes are delicious and inspiring, the true asset of the cookbook is its ice cream base recipe, which provides a solid foundation for experimenting with other flavor combinations as well.

In the place of egg yolks, Jeni uses cream cheese as the primary source of protein to “capture” the water molecules in the ice cream mixture, giving it that smooth, velvety texture once frozen. When heated, the casein in the cream cheese binds with the water molecules in the milk and cream, preventing them from sticking together and forming ice chunks once frozen. Since you only need about 3 tablespoons of the stuff, the cream cheese barely contributes any taste to the final product. Plus, there is no risk of leaving scrambled eggs in your ice cream (yuck).

Here, the base serves as a great conduit for the ginger and cardamom flavors.

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Lemon Cream Puffs, or The Mysterious Case of the Disappearing Pâte Sucrée

Every time I flip through my copy of Pierre Hermé’s Pastries, I find myself coming back again and again to the recipe for Choux Infiniment Citron – partly because it brings together two of my favorite things, cream puffs and lemon curd, and partly because of the sweet tart dough which, once baked, mysteriously disappears from the page altogether (It took five read throughs and all the patience my friends could muster to finally confirm that this was indeed a mistake and not a symptom of my own inability to read).

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Vanishing pâte sucrée aside, the recipe still serves as a wonderful source of inspiration. With a little help from my trusty friends The Joy of Cooking and Cooks‘ Illustrated, I came away with a simplified version that’s easy enough to include in my regular potluck rotation. Because face it, potlucks are always at least a little bit of a competition.

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