Malted Brown Butter Blondies

I inherited my obsession with malted milk powder from my mom. More often than not, we would eat the powder dry, straight from the can, holding our breaths as we bring the spoons to our mouths so as not to blow the contents all over the kitchen counter. This recipe, inspired by a fudgy malt cake we had for dessert at a restaurant in Thailand, is a nod to my mother and all the things she taught me.

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The malt flavor, while subtle, perfectly compliments the fudgey, gooey texture of these bars. The butter, well browned, amplifies the nuttiness of the malt.

I use Horlick’s (fun fact: pharmacist James Horlick invented the product as an infant food and patented the name “malted milk” in 1887), but feel free to use whatever brand you like.

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Roasted Cauliflower Soup with Cilantro Pesto

We arrived back in Los Angeles at the beginning of February amidst uncharacteristic torrential rains, and the gloom has barely lifted since. But the weather is hardly the only unusual thing nowadays. As we brace ourselves for the literal and metaphorical downpour, soup is just the thing to sooth the soul and fuel the body. It is, after all, much harder to brave the weather on an empty stomach.

This soup is the rare kind that actually hits the spot while requiring minimal effort. It is easy to scale up or down, and to adapt with whatever herbs and hardy veg you have on hand. What’s more, all of the components can be made ahead of time and stashed in your fridge; you can even make a bit more of each and save for another meal.

The pesto can be skipped in a pinch, but I find that it does bring some much needed freshness to the dish.

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5 Under $50 Holiday Gifts for your Favorite Food Nerds

The holiday season kind of snuck up on me this year… I guess when you live in L.A. where it’s still 80 degrees out every other day, it’s easy to forget that the Winter Wonderland season is just around the corner.

Though I do somewhat miss the promise of a White Christmas, eggnog lattes, ginger cookies and pine-scented candles  go a long way towards making you feel all warm, fuzzy and festive no matter the temperature.

Speaking of warm-fuzzies, here are my favorite under $50 gifts for those people in your life who have a tendency to go on and on about the differences between Vietnamese and Korintje cinnamon …

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Yosemite

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These photos are from a family trip we took to Yosemite National Park last October. The valley and its surrounding area has, since the 1800s, been a bustling tourist destination and one of California’s major attractions. Nowadays, somewhere between 3 to 4 million  visitors from all over the world make the pilgrimage to the park each year to experience the chills-down-your-spine beauty of its giant sequoia grove and granite monoliths.

On The Saint of Killers and Brown Butter Snickerdoodles

I picked up the first volume of Garth Ennis and Matt Dillon’s Preacher comic on a whim four or five years ago. I was home in Bangkok for Christmas break, and had found myself – as usual – prowling the shelves of Kinokuniya to kill a couple hours and find something new to read. I wolfed it down in one sitting that night (jet lag does have its advantages) and could not get back to the store quickly enough to get the rest. As the dog ears and cracked spines now suggest, these comics have seen quite a bit of traffic – probably more than most books on my shelf.

Ennis’ West is a modern day ode to that mythical, mystical place where steely-eyed men ride after the American dream with nothing but his horse, his revolver, and his resolve; where justice is served the old-fashioned way: with a side of whoop-ass.

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Similarly, these brown butter Snickerdoodles brings complexity to a well-loved, well-trodden recipe that can, at times, come off as one-dimensional. The original recipe comes from Matt Lewis and Renato Poliafito’s Baked Elements, another well-thumbed volume in our household.  While Matt and Renato recommend straining the butter before use, I like the added depth that the browned milk solids bring (besides, washing strainers is the worst). I also recommend using Vietnamese cinnamon if you can find it, since it is stronger and spicier than other varieties.

snickerdoodles

Recipe below the jump!

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Chewy Black Sesame Cookies

As bakers, we derive a good deal of inspiration from nostalgia. Making sweet treats is a way to commemorate your childhood, a chance to shut up that sensible adult voice in your head telling you to eat more vegetables and do your taxes with a boatload of sugar and fats.
Sesame cookie dough
Black sesame, commonly used in both sweet and savory preparations in Thai and Chinese cuisine, is high on my list of nostalgic ingredients. I grew up loving desserts made with black sesame, from bua loi nam king, black sesame dumplings in sweet ginger tea, to fried sesame balls at dim sum restaurants, to black sesame granola bars sold at my mom’s favorite health food store. Nowadays, eating anything that contains black sesame is sure to make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

These chewy  black sesame cookies, inspired by Christina Tosi’s genius corn cookies, combines the warm, toasty, savoriness of black sesame with the buttery richness of an American style soft cookie. These treats are so comforting they are sure to satisfy your sense of nostalgia, even for memories you never had.
all baked!
You can find black sesame seeds at most Asian grocery stores. You can get them pre-toasted, but I like to get them raw and toast them myself.

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Turkey Zucchini Patties

As a card-carrying red meat lover, I’ve always poo-poo’ed turkey, the dieter’s go-to, out of principle. Turkey burgers are boring and dry, so beige in appearance, taste and connotation. If you were to meet a turkey burger at a party, it would most certainly bore you half to death with details of its latest juice cleanse routine while the bacon cheeseburger is doing shots and keg stands. It also doesn’t help that I tend to overcook my turkey burgers to satisfy my (somewhat selective) fear of salmonella.

Once in a while though, even this glutton needs something that’s a little… well, less likely to cause cardiac arrest. To satisfy these occasional bouts of health-consciousness, I set myself to the challenge of making turkey patties that don’t suck.

My Eureka moment came while flipping through Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi’s engrossing Jerusalem: a Cookbook: The secret, my friends, is zucchini.

The shredded zucchini provides these turkey patties with added moisture, keeping them juicy (and giving you a little more leeway withwat cooking). It’s also a good way to up the vegetable content of your meal to boot.

Since zucchinis contain so much moisture, it’s important to drain some of the water from the veg beforehand to prevent your patties from becoming waterlogged and mushy. I do this by mixing the shredded zucchini with a little bit of salt and letting it drain in a colander (or in a bowl lined with paper towels) for about ten minutes before use.

The patties can be served with buns and your favorite burger accoutrements, or with a side of your choice. I like to serve them alongside a simple green salad with a lemon, mustard and honey vinaigrette dressing. The salad provides a good textural contrast, while the dressing also serves as a light sauce for the patties as well.

Making use of summer’s most prodigious produce, these turkey patties are a light, flavorful and highly adaptable dish; in all, a healthy dinner that’s not at all spartan.

turkey patties

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Chocolate Chip Cookies

My first experience of the American style, gooey in the center, crunchy on the outside chocolate chip cookie came out of a Pepperidge Farms bag. I had never tasted anything like it before: up until that point, cookies to me meant the drab, shortening-based, mass-produced, hard nuggets often issued with your Ovaltine at funerals. From the first taste, I was hooked: I didn’t know that a cookie could be so soft and moist and gooey and… comforting. It immediately transported me to the white-picket-fenced homes I’d only read about in children’s books.

Amurrca, fuck yeah!

Amurrca, fuck yeah!

This Pepperidge Farms cookie was my gateway drug to baking. I spent the year after cramming that whole cookie (and the rest of the pack) into my mouth searching for others like it. My failure to do so eventually led me to start doing it myself. From those first few batches of cookies that were sometimes too cakey, sometimes too hard, sometimes a gooey, spread-out mess, I started trying out other recipes in the cookbooks and, as they say, it all went downhills from there.

So in honor of July 4th, that most ‘Murrcan of holidays, I present to you my own taste of the American Dream: the ooey, gooey, white-picket-fencey chocolate chip cookie.

Tastes like freedom

Tastes like freedom

Much better cooks have spent countless hours testing recipes, refining methods and writing treatises on the subject. In particular, I’d highly recommend these helpful tips from Brave Tart (where the nutmeg in our recipe comes from), and this thorough guide from Serious Eats’ Food Lab (SCIENCE!).

In my experience, I’d say that the most important step to never, ever skip unless you absolutely have to is refrigeration: it makes a huge difference in your cookies’ consistency. So even if you are willing to forgo any of the other pro-tips for the sake of time and convenience, do absolutely plan ahead and make sure you have at least 1-2 hours  (okay, or 30 minutes and an empty freezer) to chill your dough before baking.

 

Chocolate Chip Cookies

Makes 18 cookies (Laura and I use a 1½ tbs scoop)

1 stick unsalted butter, slightly softened
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup white sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 ¼ cup all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
1 cup chocolate chips

First, check your fridge and make sure there’s enough space for a sheet pan. Go on – do it. You’ll thank me later.

Line a sheet pan with a silicon mat or parchment paper.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, start creaming the butter and sugars together at medium speed. Once the mixture starts to come together, add the egg and vanilla, then continue creaming until the butter is light and fluffy and the sugars have dissolved, about 7-10 minutes (We have Momofuku Milkbar‘s Christina Tosi to thank for this approach).

Meanwhile, in another bowl, whisk together all the dry ingredients (except the chocolate chips). Once your butter mixture is ready, dump the dry ingredients into the stand mixer bowl and mix on low until just combined. Mix in the chocolate chips.

Using a medium sized (1½ tbs) scoop, scoop balls of dough onto your sheet pan. You can place them fairly close together at this stage, since you’re not baking them just yet. Cover the sheet pan with plastic wrap, and pop the whole thing in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

Once the dough balls are firm, you can store them in a plastic bag (they’ll last in the fridge for up to 3 days or in the freezer for a couple weeks) or bake them.

To bake, preheat your oven to 350F and arrange your dough balls 1-2 inches apart on a lined sheet pan (you’ll need 2 if you are baking the whole recipe).  Bake your cookies at 350F for 15 minutes, or until the cookies have spread and the edges are starting to brown. Let cool for a couple minutes on the sheet pan before moving them to a cooling rack or, as we do it, to your mouth.

The cookies will store in an airtight container for 2-3 days (props to you if you can keep them around for that long).

Matcha Macarons

macaronThe first time I saw macarons, I knew we were meant to be. I remember gaping at the colorful display in the window of a patisserie on a family trip to Paris when I was eight or nine, wondering what these little tidbits, almost too beautiful to be food, could be. With no comman

d of the language and no control over our tour group’s itinerary (ever seen those tour groups that travel by giant buses, disembarking to gobble up tourist attractions in 30-minute intervals? Yeah, that was us), I didn’t get the chance to find out.

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Then, many years later, like star-crossed lovers, the macaron and I again encountered one another, this time, at my (at the time future) in-laws’. Someone had sent my mother-in-law a box of them from an expensive New York patisserie as a present. At long last, I took my first bite of this beautiful, illusive morsel… and was  terribly, terribly underwhelmed. Dry, chalky and one-noted in its flavor, it fell far short of what I had imagined.

Despite my disappointment, I knew that the macaron could, at least in theory, be far more. Thus began my quest to capture the Platonic ideal of the macaron: a sandwich cookie with shells sturdy enough to withhold assembly, yet tender enough to melt in your mouth, holding a filling that’s assertive enough to impart an interesting flavor, but not so sweet that it turns the whole endeavor into a cloying sugar-fest.

Below is a recipe for one of my favorite iterations of this cookie so far. Matcha, or Japanese ceremonial green tea powder, provides a deep flavor and a little bit of bitterness to balance out the sweetness. To boot, it also provides great color with no added moisture.macarondone2

 

While we’re on the subject of moisture, it’s important to note that letting your cookies dry before baking them is key. I kept skipping this at first, and kept ending up with cracked shells. Turns out that letting a skin develop on top of your shells before baking them is key to protecting their facades and creating their “feet,” that signature ruffle that forms around the base of macarons when they rise correctly (i.e. from the bottom). That said, even if your macarons do crack, who cares as long as they are delicious?

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Pumpkin Muffins with Toasted Pumpkin Seeds

These pumpkin muffins are moist and flavorful without being overly sweet (it’s a muffin, people, not a cupcake!). The toasted pumpkin seeds provide an added textural element. They’re perfect for breakfast or brunch right out of the oven, but will keep for a few days covered and refrigerated. There’s no better weekday breakfast (or midnight snack) than a muffin, split in half and toasted until golden brown, served with a knob of butter or cream cheese.

pumpkin muffin whole

Here, I used canned pumpkin purée (the plain kind, not the pre-seasoned pumpkin pie filling) because that’s what I had on hand and, as usual, I’d left myself less than an hour to put together Sunday brunch. With a little foresight, fresh pumpkin purée could, of course, be used instead.

pumpkin muffin interior

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